Curitiba

We liked Curitiba, a tidy, well-organized, smaller city in with a manifestly good quality of life. Curitiba is in Paraná state and its position in southern Brazil means that it is beef country. This was the place, we decided, to go to a churrascaria. There were many, but we picked the Tropilha Grill, close to downtown.

It was great: especially the beef ribs, which you can see below. The meal cost about $65 US for two, including several drinks.

Meltingly tender beef ribs at the Tropilha Grill in Curitiba

Traveling in Southern Brazil

We traveled between SP, Rio de Janeiro, Curitiba and Paraty on first-class buses, known here as executivos. We found them very, very comfortable although the driving was sometimes harrowing, especially on mountain passes. One of the delights of the travel was rest stops with first-rate buffet lunches, payable by the kilo. Some of these had a huge variety of offerings, and the food seemed to be of very good quality.

highway rest stop between Rio and SP: sweets buffet

São Paulo

We did not pursue any fine dining experiences in São Paulo, but we did go to the neighborhood of Liberdade to seek Japanese food. The selection of restaurants seemed paltry to us compared to New York, but perhaps that was to be expected.

We did find this little bar offering Japanese-style tapas. The pickled sardines were very good.

Japanese Tapas in Liberdade, São Paulo

We know there is a world of wonderful food in Sampa, but we really didn’t have too much time to explore. We did notice, however, that the coffee culture there is outstanding.

In Brazil

Ipanema Beach

It´s winter in Brazil, but not too bad for all that.

This is from a street market on Sunday on Rua Siqueira Campos in Copacabana, right down from our hotel.

If it´s Friday night, it must be Arcos da Lapa. This downtown neighborhood is extraordinarily festive on Friday night. There are parties on the street and vendors galore. Or you can choose one of many interesting restaurants.

Arcos da Lapa

We went here:

Antonio´s, Arcos da Lapa

Antonio´s

It wasn´t a mistake. We had a lovely mango and shrimp salad and a sanuiche de carne seca, i.e. a jerked beef sandwhich layered with grilled onions and farmer´s cheese. I´ll be bloging more on carne seca.

mango salad, antonio´s

sanduiche de carne seca

Here´s some carne seca hanging in a Sunday market in Copa. It is said to keep for a month or so without refrigeration. It´s quite salty, so you have to desalinate it before you use it. Delicious!

carne seca, market in Copa

This is an essential ingredient in Feijoada.